"There’s always been a notion of the economies of scale but that doesn’t work that well here. A good bag needs x amount of hours. "
“一直以來(lái)都強(qiáng)調(diào)大規(guī)模生產(chǎn)的概念,但這在這里行不通。一個(gè)好包需要幾個(gè)小時(shí)。你不能欺騙自己。 雖然這里的一些工廠已經(jīng)開(kāi)始使用裝配線(xiàn)來(lái)加速制造過(guò)程,但許多工廠拒絕妥協(xié)。”
Jorge Oliva Perez, general manager at local leather brand El Potro says a single worker still makes the entire bag, bar the cutting and the design.
當(dāng)?shù)仄じ锲放艵l Potro的總經(jīng)理豪爾赫.奧利瓦.佩雷斯表示,這里仍有一名工人負(fù)責(zé)整個(gè)包的制作,不會(huì)分工,也不會(huì)負(fù)責(zé)設(shè)計(jì)。
"It’s very important to hold onto these skills," says Jorge.
“堅(jiān)持這些技能是非常重要的,”豪爾赫說(shuō)。
Like many of those working here, Jorge would like this expertise officially recognised with - a "Made in Ubrique" label.
和許多在這里工作的人一樣,豪爾赫也希望能附上官方認(rèn)可的專(zhuān)業(yè)的“made in Ubrique”的標(biāo)簽。
"I think it’s very important for our future," he says.
“我認(rèn)為這對(duì)我們的未來(lái)非常重要,”他說(shuō)。
Many of the big brands had decided to cut costs by switching supplier - in most cases shifting orders to China or elsewhere in Asia.
許多大品牌已經(jīng)決定通過(guò)更換供應(yīng)商來(lái)降低成本,大多將訂單轉(zhuǎn)移到中國(guó)或亞洲其他地方。
While orders from cheaper brands continued, there was less work overall which meant some people lost their jobs and went into other industries.
盡管來(lái)自較廉價(jià)的品牌的訂單持續(xù)增長(zhǎng),但總的工作減少了,這意味著一些人失去了工作,進(jìn)入了其他行業(yè)。
Nonetheless, Ubrique’s councillor for culture Jose Manuel Fernadez Rivera says most workers "kept working because they knew that their quality was better and they were going to come back".
盡管如此,Ubrique的Jose Manuel Fernadez Rivera說(shuō),大多數(shù)工人“繼續(xù)在這里工作,因?yàn)樗麄冎浪麄兊馁|(zhì)量更好,客戶(hù)將會(huì)回來(lái)”。
It turned out to be true. A year later, most of the big brands had returned.
事實(shí)證明這是真的。一年后,大多數(shù)大品牌都重新回到這里。
"The Chinese learn very fast but we know that the quality, the detail that we give in every piece, which is what the brands ask for, they’re not going to get that," he says.
他說(shuō):“中國(guó)人學(xué)得很快,但我們知道,每件商品的質(zhì)量、細(xì)節(jié),都是品牌所要求的,他們是做不到的。”
The other issue that drove the brands to return to a European manufacturer, was that a bag made in Asia was a tough sell to some of their biggest customers - those living in Hong Kong, China and Singapore.
另一個(gè)促使這些品牌回到歐洲制造商的原因是,亞洲制造的這些高端包包一般很難在香港、中國(guó)和新加坡有市場(chǎng)。
When they’re paying hundreds, or in some cases thousands of euros, to buy a bag from a top Italian and French designer then they expect it to be made there not in their home country.
他們一般不會(huì)支付數(shù)百美元甚至數(shù)千歐元,從頂級(jí)的意大利和法國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)師那里購(gòu)買(mǎi)一個(gè)包。
"In this business you have to work with your hands. Every product is different because you do it one by one," says Mr Sanchez.
“在這個(gè)行業(yè)里,你必須用你的雙手去一點(diǎn)一點(diǎn)做。工匠一個(gè)接一個(gè)地做,每一個(gè)都獨(dú)一無(wú)二。”